Kazu-san of Anzu

The first time I met Kazu-san, his sushi bar was in the ground floor of Hotel Nikko and the counter was low - an inconsequential detail that we sometimes reminisce over when he has to reach over to put the latest morsel on my plate. Master sushi chef Kazuhito Takahashi (given name, family name) is Kazu-san once you get to know him or, if you speak proper Japanese in the familiar form, Ka-san.

For whatever it is worth, I think enjoying sushi and sashimi in a restaurant has a prerequisite and a requisite. The prerequisite is to have quality ingredients handled properly - not wanting to compete against Anthony Bourdain's book Kitchen Confidential, I will spare you of the details how this seemingly intuitively obvious thing are not often easy to get. Fortunately, this is pretty easy to figure out if you are observant. The requisite is to have a competent chef who can explain his sushi meshi*, has a view on the shape of the rice finger*, and can propose a sushi sequence given today's selection. This is a bit more work as you either have to get recommendation from somebody you trust or take a risk to find out. After meeting these conditions, in the best of all possible worlds, there is an understanding between you and the chef such that you do not need to order anything explicitly. This is the ultimate in enjoying sushi but also the most difficult because you need to gain the chef's respect as much as he needs to keep you as a client.




Always get a reservation to eat at Anzu with Kazu-san. Upon sitting, we would exchange a bit of pleasantry on what each others have been up to while he readies a couple amuse-bouche dishes – usually blanched spinach and Hamachi cooked in dashi*. Then, there will be an inquery by Kazu-san in case there is anything that he should be aware of such as an opera to catch. With a smile and a knowing look, the gastronomic feast of sashimi and sushi from light to fatty with contrasting flavor and texture starts. During the dinner, he would entertain questions such as the type(s) of uni* he is using and, if the sushi bar is not too busy, he can talk about his latest golf adventure. On the other hand, if I am busy chatting for business or with friends, he makes sure that the whole time goes smoothly and unobtrusive.

He and I, we have an understanding.

In a traditional sushi dinner, tamago* is the dessert equivalent. Make sure you order it and tell him that this is your dessert so he will make it with a decorative cut. I no longer get the decoration, maybe he thinks that he needs to impress in other ways. Lucky for me, he always succeeds.




Anzu Restaurant and Sushi Bar
T: 415.394.1100 (Reservation)
www.restaurantanzu.com

Hotel Nikko San Francisco
222 Mason Street
San Francisco, California 94102
T: 415.394.1111
F: 415.394.1106
www.hotelnikkosf.com

* Notes

Dashi - a Japanese soup stock and seasoning

Rice finger - the manipulated wad of sushi meshi for sushi

Sushi meshi - flavored rice for sushi

Tamago - egg

Uni - sea urchin


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