GlobalCorners Gastronomic

GlobalCorners Gastronomic - for the inner Homo Gastronomus in all of us - Copyright 2005 by GlobalCorners

Reviews of food and wine around the world by the Global Corners team.

e-mail us at: globalcorners (at) gmail (dot) com

Interesting Links:

hclw.blogspot.com/
www.faultyvision.net
globalcorners.blogspot.com
chickenheadless.blogspot.com
Aquarius Space
zen.sandiego.edu:8080/Jerome

Friday, January 28, 2005

Herbivore




A vegan restaurant.

Before the voluntary convultion sets in, it is not that bad despite the various limitations of a vegan diet; after all, nobody opens a second restaurant if the concept is a flop. It is a fun alternative to the pedestrian fare of everyday.

Anyway, the menu is an eclectic selection of global dishes adopted to the vegan requirements. With a long tradition of vegetarian fare, Asian preparations do play a fairly prominent role although localization to the American palates has made the food less intimidating for the locals. The savory crepes with curry sauce and potatoes is a comfort food when a starch fix is called for. The coconut noodle soup comes with rice noodles, tofu, spinach, carrots, broccoli, tomatoes, pineapple, bean sprouts, oyster mushrooms, green onions and cilantro; an interesting adoption of the spicy Malaysian Laksa Lemak.




The crepe and coconut noodle may not be the best in the gastronomic sense, but for light-handed vegan treatment of everyday dishes, Herbivore offers a welcome alternative in this noisy world of industrial agriculture.

Herbivore
531 Divisidero, SF 94117
Phone: (415) 885-7133
Fax: (415) 826-7135
www.herbivore-restaurant.com




Hours
Sun - Thu 9am – 10pm
Fri - Sat 9am – 11pm

(C)2005 GlobalCorners About


Sunday, January 16, 2005

A16


I am not one to add fuel to the US vs. Italy pizza debate. I, on the other hand, am on the constant look out for a good pizza. Rumor has it that A16’s executive chef, Christophe Hille, studied pizza making in Nepal.




Starting with a long bar area packed with BMW-driving yuppies, the kitchen counter marks the start of the crowded dining area. The décor is dreamy and child-like; the staffs are stylishly and casually dressed. It is a fabulous operation.

Starters
Minestra maritata is an old Neapolitan dish made with vegetable and meat in a clear broth. The A16 version is made with escarole*, rapini*, kale, and pork brodo*. The brodo is rich yet light and the blend of vegetable provides an articulated contrast. Cheese sprinkle on the vegetable is kind of funky.

Involtini, made by rolling ricotta cheese inside chard leaves, with walnuts, radishes, and green olives is a simple dish showcasing the goodness of ingredients while playing off the texture of ricotta cheese and chard.




Pizze
The Funghi pizza has mushrooms, mozzarella, grana padano*, pecorino*, and olive oil. The chewy crust is flavorful but not tiring on the jaw. The toppings make a harmonious presentation in their own right and with the crust. It is a pizza that sates the physical and mental needs of here and now while hinting at the next visit.

A16
2355 Chestnut Street (Between Scott and Divisadero)
San Francisco, CA 94123
T: 415 771-2216
F: 415 771-2221
www.a16sf.com

Hours
Sunday – Thursday: 5:00 p.m. - 10:00 p.m., Friday & Saturday 5:00 p.m. - 11:00 p.m.
Wednesday – Friday: 11:30 a.m. - 2:30 p.m.

* Notes
  • Escarole: Chicory, a green vegetable usually used for salad
  • Rapini: Broccoli Rabe, a leafy green vegetable that is frequently eaten in Southern Italy
  • Brodo: broth (Italian)
  • Grana Padano: an Italian cheese from Piedmont, Lombardy, Veneto, Trentino-Alto Adige and Emilia-Romagna. www.granapadano.com
  • Pecorino: Pecorino Romano. an Italian cheese from Sardinia, Latium and the Grosseto province of Tuscany. www.pecorinoromano.net

    (C)2005 GlobalCorners About

    Samovar Tea Lounge




    Tea is big. It offers healthy chemicals for the body; the drinking of it is associated with tranquility; it does not stink up your breath like coffee; and, strictly personal view but most important, another Starbucks shop will irreversibly disrupt the cosmic balance and cause the end of the universe.

    But. We all have so much to live for.

    Sometimes.

    Samovar is one of those up-and-coming tea lifestyle outfits that have sprouted up in recent years offering alternatives for the wearies. A stone throw away from Tartine, a sense of calm envelops you as soon as you cross the threshold. Offering a combination of sitting arrangements from the standard table/chair fares to setups for single user, there are tea literatures and samples to browse and fondle.

    How is the tea? While it would be unfair to compare the coverage and quality with the long-established tea merchants like Mariage Freres, Samovar offer seven Pu-Erh teas, three more than the four varieties of Freres. On the other hand, as a "tea lifestyle" destination, Samovar is a resounding success.




    Samovar Tea Lounge
    498 Sanchez St (at 18the St)
    San Francisco, CA 94114
    T: 415.626.4700
    www.samovartea.com

    Hours: 10am - 10:30pm everyday

    (C)2005 GlobalCorners About

    Friday, January 14, 2005

    Scharffen Berger Chocolate Maker




    Scharffen Berger is probably the best known gourmet chocolate maker in the San Francisco Bay area. The shop at Ferry Plaza is full of tasty bonbons, cocoa powder, sauces, and other assortments of goodies. A sight that cannot help but bring smiles.

    While Scharffen Berger may not offer a dazzling array of flavors, it offers interpretations of the traditional bonbons for the world to savor. These bonbons have gone through the standard battery of chocolate tasting tests and gotten the rating of texture - 3.00, aroma - 3.40, balance - 3.00, intensity - 3.10 with an over rating of 3.10. One minor disappointment vis-à-vis their French Chocolatier counterparts is that there is only one type of bonbons with praline fourrage.




    Tasting Notes

    Ganache has a rich couverture although not structurally articulated against the texture of the creamy ganache. The aroma has a combination of sweet, acidic, and floral profiles. The component profiles are not balanced with the intensity wanting. Overall fun to eat if not assertive.

    Praline has a texture that is too fine and, therefore, takes away the sinful pleasure of crunching on sugar and nuts. The couverture is rich if not articulated. A bitter end note is not well integrated with the overall structure.




    Scharffen Berger Chocolate Maker
    One Ferry Building #14
    San Francisco, CA 94111
    T: 415.981.9150
    www.scharffenberger.com

    Hours:
    Monday-Friday: 10am-8pm
    Saturday: 8am-8pm
    Sunday: 10am-5pm




    (C)2005 GlobalCorners About

    Frog Hollow Farm


    Frog Hollow is probably the most consistent purveyor of tasty organic fruits in California. And, for the record, their peaches are good for the soul too.

    It must be noted with some glee that the Ferry Plaza shop offers pastry made with organic ingredients, like peach galettes*, and fruit conserves, offering a gleam of summer during this hibernating season. It is a fancy fruit stand with fruit (cold storage?) and an on-site kitchen for pastry and coffee.

    The peach in the galette is signature Frog Hollow – acidic, sweet, and floral – with all the components in harmony. The construction of the pastry is flaky and rich even if it is not to the level of Bay Bread. But, with Frog Hollow peach as ingredient, it would be unfair to have the perfect pastry dough too.




    Frog Hollow Farm
    One Ferry Building #46
    San Francisco, CA 94111
    T: 415 445-0990
    www.froghollow.com

    Hours:
    Monday-Friday: 7:30am-6pm
    Saturday: 7am-6pm
    Sunday: 9am-5pm

    * Notes
    Galette: a round and flat cake made from flaky-pastry dough topped with fruit, jam, nuts, meat, cheese, etc.

    (C)2005 GlobalCorners About