Briqueterie, La

(Bar de lingne et Ecrevisses Poeles, Fondu de Poireaux a la Crème, Sauce au Champagne Blanc de Blancs)

La Briqueterie is a Michelin one-star establishment six kilometer outside of Epernay in the Champagne region. A great place for a leisurely Sunday lunch lasting hours since there is really nothing better to do. The restaurant is decorated in a classic white country motif with vases of lily generously scattered throughout the dinning area. Service is prompt and earnest. Food execution is competent and clearly articulated. While one wonders if the staff is trying a bit too hard with eyes toward a two-star status, it sure is nice to be pampered, whatever the motif. Oh, in case you ever wonder what is an acceptable method of “making an entrance” to a Michelin restaurant, helicopter. While strolling the herbal garden outside of the dinning room, a small two men helicopter landing on a field nearby. Technically, it can be for a number of reasons - a butler dispatched to get something for an afternoon tea or a special-force pastry chef called in to rescue the soufflé, but what a way to come in for a casual meal.



(Foie Gras de Canard aux Figues et Ratafia de Champagne, Cuit en Terrine, Confiture de Chou Rough)

Tasting Menu

Amuse-Bouche

Foie Gras de Canard aux Figues et Ratafia de Champagne, Cuit en Terrine, Confiture de Chou Rough

Coquilles Saint Jacques Roties aux Aromates en Salade Hivernales, Vinaigrette au Beurre Noisette

Bar de lingne et Ecrevisses Poeles, Fondu de Poireaux a la Crème, Sauce au Champagne Blanc de Blancs

Noisettes de Chevreuil Cuites sur le Grill, Poire Caramelisee et Poelee de Spaetzle, Sauce Poivrade aux Airelles

Fromages de nos Regions Affines en Cave

Charlotine au Chocolat Amer et Cafe, Juile aux Epices, Crème Glacee au Safran

Mignardises

Gourmet Menu

Amuse-Bouche

Crème de Chataignes et Fine Franche Sechee de Jambon d'Auvergne

Filet de Rouget Barbet Juste Cuit au Four a l'Huile d'Olive Servi sur les Legumes de la Soupe de Moules au Safran

Pigeonneau de Champagne Desosse au Foie Gras et aux Fruffes en Feuillete

Formages de nos Regions Affines en Cave

Croque Agrumes et Crousti Moelleux Acidule, Arlettes Vanillees et Sorbet a la Mandarine des Montagnes

Mignardises



(Noisettes de Chevreuil Cuites sur le Grill, Poire Caramelisee et Poelee de Spaetzle, Sauce Poivrade aux Airelles)

Noteworthy dishes

"Confiture de Chou Rough of Foie Gras de Canard aux Figues et Ratafia de Champagne, Cuit en Terrine, Confiture de Chou Rough" is quite excellent. The confit technique is such that Chou Rough retained a crunch texture without a vegetal hint and the glace provides a nice visual contrast with that of the terrine de Foie Gras de Canard. The most visually impressive dish is "Bar de lingne et Ecrevisses Poeles, Fondu de Poireaux a la Crème, Sauce au Champagne Blanc de Blancs" where a crawfish is prominently featured and the foamy sauce provides a good coat on the tongue and good foundation for the dish.



(Coquilles Saint Jacques Roties aux Aromates en Salade Hivernales, Vinaigrette au Beurre Noisette)

An question on fennel sprigs - what's up with fennel sprigs and seafood dishes in Champagne? Mind you, fennels of all incarnations are worthy ingredients, but the appearance of fennel sprigs in Champagne seafood dishes smacks of perfunctory gestures. In addition to the sprigs on the "Bar de lingne" dish, see the same with "Coquilles Saint Jacques Roties aux Aromates en Salade Hivernales, Vinaigrette au Beurre Noisette" and "Filet de Rouget Barbet Juste Cuit au Four a l'Huile d'Olive Servi sur les Legumes de la Soupe de Moules au Safran." Maybe its omnipresence is a traditional stylistic requirement?



(Filet de Rouget Barbet Juste Cuit au Four a l'Huile d'Olive Servi sur les Legumes de la Soupe de Moules au Safran)

If you must ask, medium doneness in meat should have expansive pinkness with a touch of red thrown in and French chefs get it right - no need for strategic ordering of rare or medium rare in the hope of hitting a true medium doneness. The medium doneness of "Noisettes de Chevreuil Cuites sur le Grill, Poire Caramelisee et Poelee de Spaetzle, Sauce Poivrade aux Airelles"” and "Pigeonneau de Champagne Desosse au Foie Gras et aux Fruffes en Feuillete" were beautiful.

Details
Hostellerie La Briqueterie
Route de Sézanne
51 530 Vinay
T: 03 26 59 99 99
F: 03 26 59 92 10
www.labriqueterie.com

Pol Roger

Being in the middle of the Champagne region, the real wine question in a restaurant is what kind of hard-to-find sparkling to order. On this point, one could argue the selection of the Pol Roger 1996 Reserve Brut at La Briqueterie is a bit pedestrian. But, hey, it is a Pol Roger and, to be quite honest, nobody will ever fault you for having poor taste considering that 1996 is the finest vintage second only after the 1990 vintage from the 90's. So, how does it taste? Pure bliss. It articulates flavors like yeast, acidity, floral, and cream of a noble champagne without hesitation and in contented balance. The structure is clear without being steely. The mousse is abundant and persistent. All in all, it is a flawless execution. Granted, one could argue this blend is a bit on the blah-side given its extraordinary balance seems like the result of a safe yet indecisive assemblage. Heretics! This bottle's effortless modesty is Zen-like and everyone should pray to be so "unlucky" to "only" drink champagne of this saintly inconspicuousness for the rest of the earthly time.




Details
Pol Roger
(Incomplete website as of posting)
www.polroger.co.uk


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