L'Avant Gout

Unsurprisingly or surprisingly, as the case may be, there is a band of young-turk chefs who have intentionally gotten off the Michelin track despite their prodigy and presumptive contender status because they want to cook as oppose to being a chef in white toque. They have been opening bistros since the early 90's and L'Avant Gout's Christophe Beaufront is one of these young-turks.



(Wild boar trotter stew)

With an international clientele, L'Avant Gout is a boisterous bistro with a welcoming fire engine red décor. Space is tight – you get involuntarily updated on what everyone is up to these days, assuming you understand the languages. And, unless you do not mind being turned away - gently, at 11pm - get a reservation. Oh, for birthdays, the staff will dim the light and bring out a sparkling candle in a torte where the entire dining room joins in the enthusiastic yells of "Bravos!"

It is a bistro.



(Sea bass with porcini)

The food is excellent, the portion is large, and you order from an adoise, a chalkboard where the menu is written. The casual and gregarious atmosphere notwithstanding, the no-nonsense classic haute technique and top grade ingredients belies the chef's Michelin contender status. Of particular note is the Bar (sea bass) on a bed of porcini mushroom drizzled with balsamic vinegar and olive oil where each component contributes to the combination with each mouthful. The wild boar trotter stew is flavorful without being overcooked or fibrous and morsels of trotter tendons has both flavor and texture.

As for desert, pick the cheese plate if you are in the mood. Otherwise, skip it. Save the space for your neighborhood pastry shop.




Details
L'Avant Gout
26, rue Bobillot
75013 Paris
T: 1-53-80-24-00

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