GlobalCorners Gastronomic

GlobalCorners Gastronomic - for the inner Homo Gastronomus in all of us - Copyright 2005 by GlobalCorners

Reviews of food and wine around the world by the Global Corners team.

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Wednesday, December 22, 2004

Christian Constant




With fabled background coming from Le Crillon, a Michelin two-star, Christian Constant is worth a visit. This shop offers a selection of savory items, pastry, and, most importantly, chocolate bonbons. While better known for his chocolate works amongst the cognoscenti, his tenure at Crillon comes in focus when you chomp on an soufflé custard with pear and caramel syrup tart, an amazing combination of texture, flavor, and happiness in each bite.

Christian Constant hides multi-layers of flavors with austere and clearly articulated couverture; unlike the ready-made firework-in-the-mouth mass appeal of JP Hevin, he asks you to engage in knowing and lingering conversations with each bonbon where, like a good wine, the more you savor it, the more secrets it reveals.

Tasting Notes
Tabulation comes with an overall rating of 3.83 with individual dimensions getting texture - 4.00, aroma - 4,00, balance - 4.00, and intensity - 4.00.

Praline has a bold and assertive texture with chunks of evenly crumbled nut and sugar crystals where additional aroma is released with each bite. While the intensity is subdued, lingering aftertaste and a tannic ending make for excellent balance.

Ganache comes with exotic combinations like vanilla flower and ginger and you cannot help but admire the confidence in the thin but clearly articulated couverture. While delicate tannic bitterness and acidity show off the ingredients, aromatic and intensity lacks focus and cause the balance to go a bit out of whack.




Details
Christian Constant
37, rue d’Assas
7500 Paris
T: 01-53-63-15-15
F: 01-53-63-15-16
Hours: Daily 8:30am-9pm
www.christianconstant.com

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