Central, Le

(Frog legs)

Le Central, an auxiliary of the Troisgros empire, is a casual dining room with a gregarious décor, a busy lunch crowd, and a lot of merchandise on display. Prompt service and excellent execution of simple food makes the best example of the single black fork rating granted by Michelin. But, Michelin edicts notwithstanding, three words make going to Le Central a no brainer - Charollais steak tartare. Steak tartare, made with chopped raw beef, is a casual fare found only in bistros. However, like good sushi, it can be a religious experience if done properly and well. Also like sushi, beef is the key determinant of a good steak tartare and charollais is a regional specialty heirloom white cow prized for its lean but tender meat. And, like most regional specialties, charollais steak tartare is best enjoyed without the toil of long distance transportation and over-handling.



(Charollais steak tartare)

The tartare is composed of minced Charollais beef, green herbs, diced pre-soaked onion, and diced cornichon. The dish is accompanied by fried potato puffs and mustard and ketchup as condiments. Think of it as a gourmet burger with fries save the bun and searing. As a dish whose raison d'etre is to showcase the beef, it does not disappoint. Charollais has a most pleasant beefy flavor without the greasy undertone typical of corn-fed beef and, despite the leanness, it is surprisingly tender and melts in your month. This may not be the right meat for cooking given how lean it is; for steak tartare, it is a first rate choice. Le Central also serves frog legs by weight. Cooked in a cast iron pan with liberal helpings of finely chopped garlic and herbs and drenched in olive oil, you transfer the legs onto a plate and drizzle it with lemon juice before digging in. Good stuff. And, no, it does not taste like chicken.



(Frog legs)


Details
Le Central
Place Jean Troisgros
42300 Roanne
T: 04 77 71 66 97
F: 04 77 70 39 77

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