Troisgros

(Finger food of the Troisgros hotel)

For those who consider access to variety and excellence in food a birth right, Michelin is one of those references that speak volume in its authoritative insight as much as it does the reader. So, meandering to the working town of Roanne for Troisgros, as Michelin's three-star calls for, is only understandable since, from a casual survey of its past patrons, the high rating is well deserved. Dîners boissons and Michael Troisgros' autograph on the menu await.

Menu

(Amuse-bouche*)

Acidule de tomate

Velours de genouil & moules de Bouchot

Sole au sesame dore & poireau aigre

Noisettes de chevreuil au coing confit

Cannelloni tiede de chevre au basilica

Quatuor de douceurs – poire-citron-café, orange meringue, abricot-verveine, banana-passion

Fine bouches

Aperitif

Saint Veran 2002 Selection Troisgros

Saint Joseph 199 Domaine Jaboulet

Café/Thé

* Amuse-bouche was not officially listed in the menu




As with other Michelin three stars, the service is excellent with staff showing a balance of knowledge, confidence, and deference. However, unlike their Parisian counterparts, the atmosphere is casual and friendly.

Flawless execution in the dishes is a pre-requisite in a three-star. What one expects, however, is to be dazzled by the creativity and Troisgros does not disappoint. The Amuse-bouche, although not listed officially, gets high mark for presentation. It was a set of four ceramic flat spoons where you pick one up, stick it into the mouth, and let the party begin with familiar tastes and unexpected combinations. Presentation aside, what generated the most discussion is what to do with the spoon once you are done with it. One school of thought suggests that you put the ceramic spoon back on the trey it comes from. The other school of thought would put the spoon onto the dish in front of you. A quick survey of other tables and patrons yield inconclusive answers.

The most eye opening dish is the "Acidule de tomate" which is a tomato purse in tomato water. In particular the tomato purse is a small de-skinned tomato that packs an elegant pick-up like well-aged balsamic vinegar when you bite into it. It looks like a perfectly innocent de-skinned tomato - there is no obvious opening in the tomato nor does the texture feel like it has been soaked or cured to infuse the flavor.

There are Japanese/Asian influences in technique and ingredients. "Velours de genouil & moules de Bouchot" is a dish having small mussels sitting on top of a chawamushi (Japanese savory egg custard) covered in lemon grass broth, foam, and fennel shaving. The flavor, texture, and technique fusion are in perfect harmony despite the descriptions.

"Sole au sesame dore & poireau aigre" is particular impressive in how two fillets of sole were stacked with a sesame crust and finely chopped ginger between the fillets. The result is a mouthful fish texture (whereas the typical single sole fillet preparation is often too-thin), sesame providing a nutty note, and the finely chopped ginger giving the combination a mild yet unexpected kick. With Japanese bonito/soy infused baby leek white as accompaniment, this dish wins points for its balanced execution and multi-culture. It is beautiful.

Without the benefit of prior experience, one can only assume wild venison was used for "Noisettes de chevreuil au coing confit" because of its distinct flavor and texture profiles relative to the prior experiences of domesticated ones. As a meat that is lean yet flavorful, the wild venison bullions were "simply" seared on the outside and served rare with quince confit as accompaniment.

Now for the bad news. The cheese and desert courses were not particularly remarkable where "Cannelloni tiede de chevre au basilica" packs no character. The "Quatuor de douceurs – poire-citron-café, orange meringue, abricot-verveine, banana-passion" were not sufficiently enticing and were not finished. Fortunately, the "Fine bouches" of cookies, candies, and caramels were well done and can be served in the salon instead of in the restaurant making it an intimate affair.

Other noteworthy dishes

One table ordered lobsters. Lobsters, per se, are not remarkable. However, if you present them on a large boat/grill, pour liquor on and under it, flambé the setup where the flame shoots up for a good meter or so, the inner child cannot help but enjoy the only pyrotechnics allowed and welcomed in a dignified three stars restaurant. Beyond the obvious entertainment value of the spectacles, the lobsters were presented cooked as the shell looked red on the grill. After the flambé, cream/butter with green specks (herbs?) is smeared over and under the lobster tail. Good show and probably good eating too.



("Gourmand" a statue of forks in front of Troisgros)

Details
Hôtel Restaurant Troisgros
Place Jean Troisgros
42300 Roanne
T: 04 77 71 66 97
F: 04 77 70 39 77
www.troisgros.com


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