GlobalCorners Gastronomic

Herbivore

2005-01-28T05:42:00.000-08:00

A vegan restaurant.

Before the voluntary convultion sets in, it is not that bad despite the various limitations of a vegan diet; after all, nobody opens a second restaurant if the concept is a flop. It is a fun alternative to the pedestrian fare of everyday.

Anyway, the menu is an eclectic selection of global dishes adopted to the vegan requirements. With a long tradition of vegetarian fare, Asian preparations do play a fairly prominent role although localization to the American palates has made the food less intimidating for the locals. The savory crepes with curry sauce and potatoes is a comfort food when a starch fix is called for. The coconut noodle soup comes with rice noodles, tofu, spinach, carrots, broccoli, tomatoes, pineapple, bean sprouts, oyster mushrooms, green onions and cilantro; an interesting adoption of the spicy Malaysian Laksa Lemak.

The crepe and coconut noodle may not be the best in the gastronomic sense, but for light-handed vegan treatment of everyday dishes, Herbivore offers a welcome alternative in this noisy world of industrial agriculture.

Herbivore
531 Divisidero, SF 94117
Phone: (415) 885-7133
Fax: (415) 826-7135
www.herbivore-restaurant.com

Hours
Sun - Thu 9am – 10pm
Fri - Sat 9am – 11pm

(C)2005 GlobalCorners About

A16

2005-01-16T13:53:00.000-08:00

I am not one to add fuel to the US vs. Italy pizza debate. I, on the other hand, am on the constant look out for a good pizza. Rumor has it that A16’s executive chef, Christophe Hille, studied pizza making in Nepal.

Starting with a long bar area packed with BMW-driving yuppies, the kitchen counter marks the start of the crowded dining area. The décor is dreamy and child-like; the staffs are stylishly and casually dressed. It is a fabulous operation.

Starters
Minestra maritata is an old Neapolitan dish made with vegetable and meat in a clear broth. The A16 version is made with escarole*, rapini*, kale, and pork brodo*. The brodo is rich yet light and the blend of vegetable provides an articulated contrast. Cheese sprinkle on the vegetable is kind of funky.

Involtini, made by rolling ricotta cheese inside chard leaves, with walnuts, radishes, and green olives is a simple dish showcasing the goodness of ingredients while playing off the texture of ricotta cheese and chard.

Pizze
The Funghi pizza has mushrooms, mozzarella, grana padano*, pecorino*, and olive oil. The chewy crust is flavorful but not tiring on the jaw. The toppings make a harmonious presentation in their own right and with the crust. It is a pizza that sates the physical and mental needs of here and now while hinting at the next visit.

A16
2355 Chestnut Street (Between Scott and Divisadero)
San Francisco, CA 94123
T: 415 771-2216
F: 415 771-2221
www.a16sf.com

Hours
Sunday – Thursday: 5:00 p.m. - 10:00 p.m., Friday & Saturday 5:00 p.m. - 11:00 p.m.
Wednesday – Friday: 11:30 a.m. - 2:30 p.m.

* Notes

Escarole: Chicory, a green vegetable usually used for salad

Rapini: Broccoli Rabe, a leafy green vegetable that is frequently eaten in Southern Italy

Brodo: broth (Italian)

Grana Padano: an Italian cheese from Piedmont, Lombardy, Veneto, Trentino-Alto Adige and Emilia-Romagna. www.granapadano.com

Pecorino: Pecorino Romano. an Italian cheese from Sardinia, Latium and the Grosseto province of Tuscany. www.pecorinoromano.net

(C)2005 GlobalCorners About

Samovar Tea Lounge

2005-01-16T13:23:00.000-08:00

Tea is big. It offers healthy chemicals for the body; the drinking of it is associated with tranquility; it does not stink up your breath like coffee; and, strictly personal view but most important, another Starbucks shop will irreversibly disrupt the cosmic balance and cause the end of the universe.

But. We all have so much to live for.

Sometimes.

Samovar is one of those up-and-coming tea lifestyle outfits that have sprouted up in recent years offering alternatives for the wearies. A stone throw away from Tartine, a sense of calm envelops you as soon as you cross the threshold. Offering a combination of sitting arrangements from the standard table/chair fares to setups for single user, there are tea literatures and samples to browse and fondle.

How is the tea? While it would be unfair to compare the coverage and quality with the long-established tea merchants like Mariage Freres, Samovar offer seven Pu-Erh teas, three more than the four varieties of Freres. On the other hand, as a "tea lifestyle" destination, Samovar is a resounding success.

Samovar Tea Lounge
498 Sanchez St (at 18the St)
San Francisco, CA 94114
T: 415.626.4700
www.samovartea.com

Hours: 10am - 10:30pm everyday

(C)2005 GlobalCorners About

Scharffen Berger Chocolate Maker

2005-01-14T17:59:00.000-08:00

Scharffen Berger is probably the best known gourmet chocolate maker in the San Francisco Bay area. The shop at Ferry Plaza is full of tasty bonbons, cocoa powder, sauces, and other assortments of goodies. A sight that cannot help but bring smiles.

While Scharffen Berger may not offer a dazzling array of flavors, it offers interpretations of the traditional bonbons for the world to savor. These bonbons have gone through the standard battery of chocolate tasting tests and gotten the rating of texture - 3.00, aroma - 3.40, balance - 3.00, intensity - 3.10 with an over rating of 3.10. One minor disappointment vis-à-vis their French Chocolatier counterparts is that there is only one type of bonbons with praline fourrage.

Tasting Notes

Ganache has a rich couverture although not structurally articulated against the texture of the creamy ganache. The aroma has a combination of sweet, acidic, and floral profiles. The component profiles are not balanced with the intensity wanting. Overall fun to eat if not assertive.

Praline has a texture that is too fine and, therefore, takes away the sinful pleasure of crunching on sugar and nuts. The couverture is rich if not articulated. A bitter end note is not well integrated with the overall structure.

Scharffen Berger Chocolate Maker
One Ferry Building #14
San Francisco, CA 94111
T: 415.981.9150
www.scharffenberger.com

Hours:
Monday-Friday: 10am-8pm
Saturday: 8am-8pm
Sunday: 10am-5pm

(C)2005 GlobalCorners About

Frog Hollow Farm

2005-01-14T17:46:00.000-08:00

Frog Hollow is probably the most consistent purveyor of tasty organic fruits in California. And, for the record, their peaches are good for the soul too.

It must be noted with some glee that the Ferry Plaza shop offers pastry made with organic ingredients, like peach galettes*, and fruit conserves, offering a gleam of summer during this hibernating season. It is a fancy fruit stand with fruit (cold storage?) and an on-site kitchen for pastry and coffee.

The peach in the galette is signature Frog Hollow – acidic, sweet, and floral – with all the components in harmony. The construction of the pastry is flaky and rich even if it is not to the level of Bay Bread. But, with Frog Hollow peach as ingredient, it would be unfair to have the perfect pastry dough too.

Frog Hollow Farm
One Ferry Building #46
San Francisco, CA 94111
T: 415 445-0990
www.froghollow.com

Hours:
Monday-Friday: 7:30am-6pm
Saturday: 7am-6pm
Sunday: 9am-5pm

* Notes
Galette: a round and flat cake made from flaky-pastry dough topped with fruit, jam, nuts, meat, cheese, etc.

(C)2005 GlobalCorners About

Mijita

2005-01-14T13:41:00.000-08:00

Although I have always wanted to visit Traci des Jardins’ Jardiniere for a pre-opera meal, since Kazu-san's sushi and easier parking beckon, I have never been. Lucky for us Jardiniere-challenged types, Mijita affords the opportunity to sample Traci's fare in the cocina Mexicana style while doing the Ferry Plaza promenade.

A casual dining spot, Mijita is cheerfully decorated in a Mexican theme without being cheesy. Brightly illuminated through bay windows with happily munching patrons on wooden furniture gives it a happy vibe unlike most tourist traps.

Mijita’s Taco de pescado, made with battered and deep-fried mahi, cabbage, and avocado in soft corn tortillas, is a yummy fare. There is more mahi mahi than batter and the mix of fish, veggie, and corn tortilla makes for a satisfying dish. Being a fan of jicama, the ensalada de jicama y aguacate, jicama, grapefruit and avocado with pumpkin seeds, is another good way to enjoy these ingredients and be reminded of all the fond memories of Mexico.

Mijita Cocina Mexicana
One Ferry Building #44
San Francisco, CA 94111
T: 415-399-0814
F: 415-399-0824
www.mijitasf.com

(C)2005 GlobalCorners About

Boulangerie Bay Bread

2005-01-10T18:03:00.000-08:00

Bay Bread specializes in boulangerie style bread, pastries, and cookies. Friendly and ever-so-slightly disorganized, it is always fun to visit. Making some of the best croissants and pain au chocolat in San Francisco, you can taste the goodness and purity of the ingredients - translation, real butter. Flaky and layered in texture, a Bay Bread croissant is one of the life's simple pleasures. It is too bad that there is no space for a cup of sit-down coffee; otherwise it would have made a perfect breakfast spot like Vincent Dallet.

A wide selection of macarons, flavored cream sandwiched with crunchy shells, is another attraction. The flavors are clearly articulated, if not intense. Part of the fun in buying macarons is selecting the flavors to try – or you can do what I do, buy one of each. No Pierre Herme, Bay Bread still makes the best macarons in San Francisco and, besides, you do not have to look fabulous to visit the shop.

Boulangerie Bay Bread
2325 Pine Street
San Francisco, CA 94115
T: 415.440.0356

(C)2005 GlobalCorners About

Tartine Bakery

2005-01-10T17:29:00.000-08:00

Despite the traumatic experience of trying to find a parking spot, all is forgiven with the first bite into the frangipane* croissant – I am not the one to hold a grudge when good food is involved.

Tartine is a happening café with a mix of patrons looking to pick up something to go or leisurely taking in today's San Francisco Chronicle. The café exudes a bohemian charm with paintings hung on the wall and wooden furniture scattered inside and outside where patrons share the tables - in a busy day, it takes the same amount of alertness and swiftness to park your butt as to park your car.

Using organic ingredients and local products, Tartine offers a yummy selection of pastries, bread, hot sandwiches, and cake. The line to order can be long at times but I consider it the best time to think through the order on what new stuff to try and what old favorites to reacquaint. A personal favorite is the frangipane croissant with its dark and flaky crust and an overabundance of almond. It may not be subtle but sure satisfies. Jambon Royale is a simple grilled hot sandwich using country bread, Niman Ranch ham, Gruyere cheese, and a touch of mustard. It is not pretentious yet provide a good contrast of flavor and texture. All these make Tartine a perfect choice for an easy weekend brunch if you can find parking.

For your car and your butt.

Tartine Bakery
600 Guerrero Street (at 18th)
San Francisco, CA 94110
T: 415.487.2600
F: 415.487.2605
www.tartinebakery.com

Hours:
Monday 8:00am-2:00pm (no cakes, tarts or bread)
Tuesday-Wednesday 7:30am-7:00pm
Thursday-Friday 7:30am-8:00pm
Saturday 8:00am-8:00pm
Sunday 9:00am-8:00pm

* Note
Frangipane: pastry with a creamy almond-flavored filling

(C)2005 GlobalCorners About

Kazu-san of Anzu

2005-01-07T14:29:00.000-08:00

The first time I met Kazu-san, his sushi bar was in the ground floor of Hotel Nikko and the counter was low - an inconsequential detail that we sometimes reminisce over when he has to reach over to put the latest morsel on my plate. Master sushi chef Kazuhito Takahashi (given name, family name) is Kazu-san once you get to know him or, if you speak proper Japanese in the familiar form, Ka-san.

For whatever it is worth, I think enjoying sushi and sashimi in a restaurant has a prerequisite and a requisite. The prerequisite is to have quality ingredients handled properly - not wanting to compete against Anthony Bourdain's book Kitchen Confidential, I will spare you of the details how this seemingly intuitively obvious thing are not often easy to get. Fortunately, this is pretty easy to figure out if you are observant. The requisite is to have a competent chef who can explain his sushi meshi*, has a view on the shape of the rice finger*, and can propose a sushi sequence given today's selection. This is a bit more work as you either have to get recommendation from somebody you trust or take a risk to find out. After meeting these conditions, in the best of all possible worlds, there is an understanding between you and the chef such that you do not need to order anything explicitly. This is the ultimate in enjoying sushi but also the most difficult because you need to gain the chef's respect as much as he needs to keep you as a client.

Always get a reservation to eat at Anzu with Kazu-san. Upon sitting, we would exchange a bit of pleasantry on what each others have been up to while he readies a couple amuse-bouche dishes – usually blanched spinach and Hamachi cooked in dashi*. Then, there will be an inquery by Kazu-san in case there is anything that he should be aware of such as an opera to catch. With a smile and a knowing look, the gastronomic feast of sashimi and sushi from light to fatty with contrasting flavor and texture starts. During the dinner, he would entertain questions such as the type(s) of uni* he is using and, if the sushi bar is not too busy, he can talk about his latest golf adventure. On the other hand, if I am busy chatting for business or with friends, he makes sure that the whole time goes smoothly and unobtrusive.

He and I, we have an understanding.

In a traditional sushi dinner, tamago* is the dessert equivalent. Make sure you order it and tell him that this is your dessert so he will make it with a decorative cut. I no longer get the decoration, maybe he thinks that he needs to impress in other ways. Lucky for me, he always succeeds.

Anzu Restaurant and Sushi Bar
T: 415.394.1100 (Reservation)
www.restaurantanzu.com

Hotel Nikko San Francisco
222 Mason Street
San Francisco, California 94102
T: 415.394.1111
F: 415.394.1106
www.hotelnikkosf.com

* Notes

Dashi - a Japanese soup stock and seasoning

Rice finger - the manipulated wad of sushi meshi for sushi

Sushi meshi - flavored rice for sushi

Tamago - egg

Uni - sea urchin

(C)2005 GlobalCorners About

Golden Gate Bakery's Egg Custards

2005-01-03T14:13:00.000-08:00

(Happy New Year)

Happy 2005. Yeap. We can all do worse than starting the new year with a poster of the prosperity deity from Chinatown.

There is much online buzz on Golden Gate Bakery from Chowhound and eGullet. A quick survey of Chinese friends also confirm its status as a well known local institution. Amongst its offerings, the egg custard tarts constantly come up as a prized item. With Ritz Carlton San Francisco being, literally, five minutes upnhill from the shop by foot, egg custards await.

It is a sparse shop with shelves full of traditional Chinese pastries, one calendar adorning the whitewashed wall and stacked boxes and chairs crowding the space for waiting customers. There is a long line where the faces are mostly Asian and the audible conversations mostly non-English.

A few background notes on egg custards. They are most commonly seen as one of the dessert options on a dim-sum cart. It is composed of a flaky crust, traditionally, made with lard and filling made of egg yolk, sugar, and milk or cream. If the dough is kept cold and handled minimally, the crust would be light and flaky and the pastry chef shows his individuality via the ingredients and seasoning.

Two still-hot custards are purchased. The crust is flaky but slightly chewy - not sure if lard-substitute is used, been over-handled, or it is due to the humidity of a raining day. The filling is hot and slightly running in texture with a strong bouquet of egg.

On a relative scale, the egg custards are definitely better than most of the egg custards I have found in dim-sum outfits. There are worse things to do in San Francisco Chinatown.

Golden Gate Bakery
1029 Grant Ave
San Francisco, CA 94133
T: 415-781-2627

(C)2005 GlobalCorners About

Champagne Launois Père et Fils

2004-12-23T18:09:00.000-08:00

(Tasting room of Launois)

Launois is a large boutique house that is considered a bona fide NM major house in all but the RM designation. Beyond the obvious attraction for being a fine producer, Launois boasts of an excellent museum that covers all things champagne from the vine, production methods, history, labels, corks, bottle making, etc. It provides an excellent counter-balance to the tour offered by Mercier with exhaustive details and wide coverage. Conversely, this tour is not for the faint of heart or the casual wine drinkers because it can be a taxing walk with excruciating details. With the disclaimer in mind, this is quite an eye opening tour.

(Machine used to press in the champagne corks in the old days)

p.s. The tours are conducted in French but the guides all speak English.

Details
Champagne Launois Père et Fils
2, Avenue Eugène Guillaume - B.P. 7
51190 LE MESNIL-SUR-OGER
www.champagne-launois.fr

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Champagne Marguet Bonnerave

2004-12-23T18:07:00.000-08:00

Before heading out to Champagne, K&L Wine Merchants Champagne buyer Gary Westby suggested a few winemakers worth visiting. While some wine makers love the opportunity to talk about their work, it is nevertheless a good thing to have introductions. Properly fortified with all due decorum and with a bit of roadside assistance from the local farm hands, Benoit, the fifth generation wine maker at Marguet Bonnerave, and mom (Benoit's) hosted the visit.

Benoit’s grapes come from 35 parcels in Ambonnay, Bouzy and Mailly-Champagne for a total of 13 hectares (32 acres) of vineyards - 70% Pinot Noir, 30% Chardonnay, vine average age of 26, planting density of 8,300 vines per hectare (3,360 per acre). Based on the official Champagne classification, 17 villages are recognized as Grand Cru amongst the 300 or so within the Champagne AOC (Appellation d'Origne Controlée) with a further 41 rated as Premier Cru. All of Marguet Bonnerave’s grapes come from plots with the Grand Cru designation.

Benoit is experimenting with bio-dynamic farming methods on some of his parcels. He also talked about the terroir and how he learnt the land as a kid walking around with his father and trying to estimate how deep the top soil is before hitting chalk. (To find out, he would make an estimate and then dig a hole to verify.) He got really bright-eyed talking about extracting must from grape's elusive pulp zone 2 to make the best wine. He also has some fermented chardonnay to sample which has a strong hint of banana oil.

Details
Marguet-Bonnerave
14, rue de Bouzy
51150 Ambonnay
www.champagne-bonnerave.com

(Other lines of champagne from the Marguet-Bonnerave house)
Champagne Marguet Pere & Fils
Les Champagnes de Benoit
www.champagne-marguet.com

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Voirin-Jumel

2004-12-23T18:06:00.000-08:00

(Champagne vines of Cramant)

The village of Cramant, in the heart of La Côte des Blancs, is noted for its chalk terroir as one of the 17 Grand Cru villages. La Maison Voirin-Jumel is a four generation champagne maker. The daughter, Alice Voirin, hosted the visit with a facility tour including the new pneumatic grape press and related memories of participating in the traditional manual corking as a kid.

She also pointed out the various champagne house categorizations such as NM vs. RM. Her brother, Patrick, is noted for his experimentation with production methods and recently came up with “Vielli en fut de chene” which is champagne aged in small oak barrels for six months. The resulting vanilla note characteristic of oak has become a favorite of Belgium buyers.

(Alice Voirin)

Details
Voirin-Jumel:
555, rue de la Libération
51530 Cramant
www.champagne-voirin-jumel.com

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Vieux-Telegraphe

2004-12-23T18:04:00.000-08:00

Domaine du Vieux-Telegraphe makes beautiful wine.

Named after the telegraph tower erected on its property by the inventor of telegraph, Claude Chappe, the winery has been run by the Brunier family since the early part of 20th century with Daniel currently on the helm. The bad news is that the namesake tower was torn down long ago and is but an image on the wine label. The good news is that even without an appointment, Eduard, Daniel's son, loves to take you around and see the operation. So, with the scion leading the way, you get a free pass to the inner working of Vieux-Telegraphe with rows of stainless steel tanks and aging barrels. In the tasting room, Eduard entertains questions on the regions, terroir compositions, and grapes selection with each pouring while directing you to use the spit bucket like a professional should. A gracious host who knows his way around fine wine, Eduard has a promising future in the family business. On the other hand, to be fair, one cannot help but wonder why is a twelve years old hanging out in a wine joint stead of school on an early Wednesday afternoon.

A tasting note of the 1989 Vieux-Telegraphe as part of the visit to the restaurant La Beaugravire.

(Scion and Telegraphe)

Details
Domaine du Vieux-Telegraphe
Vignobles Brunier
3, route de Chateauneuf du Pape
84360 Bedarrides
T: 04 90 33 00 31
F: 04 90 33 18 47
www.vignoblesbrunier.fr

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Troisgros

2004-12-23T17:19:00.000-08:00

(Finger food of the Troisgros hotel)

For those who consider access to variety and excellence in food a birth right, Michelin is one of those references that speak volume in its authoritative insight as much as it does the reader. So, meandering to the working town of Roanne for Troisgros, as Michelin's three-star calls for, is only understandable since, from a casual survey of its past patrons, the high rating is well deserved. Dîners boissons and Michael Troisgros' autograph on the menu await.

Menu

(Amuse-bouche*)

Acidule de tomate

Velours de genouil & moules de Bouchot

Sole au sesame dore & poireau aigre

Noisettes de chevreuil au coing confit

Cannelloni tiede de chevre au basilica

Quatuor de douceurs – poire-citron-café, orange meringue, abricot-verveine, banana-passion

Fine bouches

Aperitif

Saint Veran 2002 Selection Troisgros

Saint Joseph 199 Domaine Jaboulet

Café/Thé

* Amuse-bouche was not officially listed in the menu

As with other Michelin three stars, the service is excellent with staff showing a balance of knowledge, confidence, and deference. However, unlike their Parisian counterparts, the atmosphere is casual and friendly.

Flawless execution in the dishes is a pre-requisite in a three-star. What one expects, however, is to be dazzled by the creativity and Troisgros does not disappoint. The Amuse-bouche, although not listed officially, gets high mark for presentation. It was a set of four ceramic flat spoons where you pick one up, stick it into the mouth, and let the party begin with familiar tastes and unexpected combinations. Presentation aside, what generated the most discussion is what to do with the spoon once you are done with it. One school of thought suggests that you put the ceramic spoon back on the trey it comes from. The other school of thought would put the spoon onto the dish in front of you. A quick survey of other tables and patrons yield inconclusive answers.

The most eye opening dish is the "Acidule de tomate" which is a tomato purse in tomato water. In particular the tomato purse is a small de-skinned tomato that packs an elegant pick-up like well-aged balsamic vinegar when you bite into it. It looks like a perfectly innocent de-skinned tomato - there is no obvious opening in the tomato nor does the texture feel like it has been soaked or cured to infuse the flavor.

There are Japanese/Asian influences in technique and ingredients. "Velours de genouil & moules de Bouchot" is a dish having small mussels sitting on top of a chawamushi (Japanese savory egg custard) covered in lemon grass broth, foam, and fennel shaving. The flavor, texture, and technique fusion are in perfect harmony despite the descriptions.

"Sole au sesame dore & poireau aigre" is particular impressive in how two fillets of sole were stacked with a sesame crust and finely chopped ginger between the fillets. The result is a mouthful fish texture (whereas the typical single sole fillet preparation is often too-thin), sesame providing a nutty note, and the finely chopped ginger giving the combination a mild yet unexpected kick. With Japanese bonito/soy infused baby leek white as accompaniment, this dish wins points for its balanced execution and multi-culture. It is beautiful.

Without the benefit of prior experience, one can only assume wild venison was used for "Noisettes de chevreuil au coing confit" because of its distinct flavor and texture profiles relative to the prior experiences of domesticated ones. As a meat that is lean yet flavorful, the wild venison bullions were "simply" seared on the outside and served rare with quince confit as accompaniment.

Now for the bad news. The cheese and desert courses were not particularly remarkable where "Cannelloni tiede de chevre au basilica" packs no character. The "Quatuor de douceurs – poire-citron-café, orange meringue, abricot-verveine, banana-passion" were not sufficiently enticing and were not finished. Fortunately, the "Fine bouches" of cookies, candies, and caramels were well done and can be served in the salon instead of in the restaurant making it an intimate affair.

Other noteworthy dishes

One table ordered lobsters. Lobsters, per se, are not remarkable. However, if you present them on a large boat/grill, pour liquor on and under it, flambé the setup where the flame shoots up for a good meter or so, the inner child cannot help but enjoy the only pyrotechnics allowed and welcomed in a dignified three stars restaurant. Beyond the obvious entertainment value of the spectacles, the lobsters were presented cooked as the shell looked red on the grill. After the flambé, cream/butter with green specks (herbs?) is smeared over and under the lobster tail. Good show and probably good eating too.

("Gourmand" a statue of forks in front of Troisgros)

Details
Hôtel Restaurant Troisgros
Place Jean Troisgros
42300 Roanne
T: 04 77 71 66 97
F: 04 77 70 39 77
www.troisgros.com

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Briqueterie, La

2004-12-23T17:14:00.000-08:00

(Bar de lingne et Ecrevisses Poeles, Fondu de Poireaux a la Crème, Sauce au Champagne Blanc de Blancs)

La Briqueterie is a Michelin one-star establishment six kilometer outside of Epernay in the Champagne region. A great place for a leisurely Sunday lunch lasting hours since there is really nothing better to do. The restaurant is decorated in a classic white country motif with vases of lily generously scattered throughout the dinning area. Service is prompt and earnest. Food execution is competent and clearly articulated. While one wonders if the staff is trying a bit too hard with eyes toward a two-star status, it sure is nice to be pampered, whatever the motif. Oh, in case you ever wonder what is an acceptable method of “making an entrance” to a Michelin restaurant, helicopter. While strolling the herbal garden outside of the dinning room, a small two men helicopter landing on a field nearby. Technically, it can be for a number of reasons - a butler dispatched to get something for an afternoon tea or a special-force pastry chef called in to rescue the soufflé, but what a way to come in for a casual meal.

(Foie Gras de Canard aux Figues et Ratafia de Champagne, Cuit en Terrine, Confiture de Chou Rough)

Tasting Menu

Amuse-Bouche

Foie Gras de Canard aux Figues et Ratafia de Champagne, Cuit en Terrine, Confiture de Chou Rough

Coquilles Saint Jacques Roties aux Aromates en Salade Hivernales, Vinaigrette au Beurre Noisette

Bar de lingne et Ecrevisses Poeles, Fondu de Poireaux a la Crème, Sauce au Champagne Blanc de Blancs

Noisettes de Chevreuil Cuites sur le Grill, Poire Caramelisee et Poelee de Spaetzle, Sauce Poivrade aux Airelles

Fromages de nos Regions Affines en Cave

Charlotine au Chocolat Amer et Cafe, Juile aux Epices, Crème Glacee au Safran

Mignardises

Gourmet Menu

Amuse-Bouche

Crème de Chataignes et Fine Franche Sechee de Jambon d'Auvergne

Filet de Rouget Barbet Juste Cuit au Four a l'Huile d'Olive Servi sur les Legumes de la Soupe de Moules au Safran

Pigeonneau de Champagne Desosse au Foie Gras et aux Fruffes en Feuillete

Formages de nos Regions Affines en Cave

Croque Agrumes et Crousti Moelleux Acidule, Arlettes Vanillees et Sorbet a la Mandarine des Montagnes

Mignardises

(Noisettes de Chevreuil Cuites sur le Grill, Poire Caramelisee et Poelee de Spaetzle, Sauce Poivrade aux Airelles)

Noteworthy dishes

"Confiture de Chou Rough of Foie Gras de Canard aux Figues et Ratafia de Champagne, Cuit en Terrine, Confiture de Chou Rough" is quite excellent. The confit technique is such that Chou Rough retained a crunch texture without a vegetal hint and the glace provides a nice visual contrast with that of the terrine de Foie Gras de Canard. The most visually impressive dish is "Bar de lingne et Ecrevisses Poeles, Fondu de Poireaux a la Crème, Sauce au Champagne Blanc de Blancs" where a crawfish is prominently featured and the foamy sauce provides a good coat on the tongue and good foundation for the dish.

(Coquilles Saint Jacques Roties aux Aromates en Salade Hivernales, Vinaigrette au Beurre Noisette)

An question on fennel sprigs - what's up with fennel sprigs and seafood dishes in Champagne? Mind you, fennels of all incarnations are worthy ingredients, but the appearance of fennel sprigs in Champagne seafood dishes smacks of perfunctory gestures. In addition to the sprigs on the "Bar de lingne" dish, see the same with "Coquilles Saint Jacques Roties aux Aromates en Salade Hivernales, Vinaigrette au Beurre Noisette" and "Filet de Rouget Barbet Juste Cuit au Four a l'Huile d'Olive Servi sur les Legumes de la Soupe de Moules au Safran." Maybe its omnipresence is a traditional stylistic requirement?

(Filet de Rouget Barbet Juste Cuit au Four a l'Huile d'Olive Servi sur les Legumes de la Soupe de Moules au Safran)

If you must ask, medium doneness in meat should have expansive pinkness with a touch of red thrown in and French chefs get it right - no need for strategic ordering of rare or medium rare in the hope of hitting a true medium doneness. The medium doneness of "Noisettes de Chevreuil Cuites sur le Grill, Poire Caramelisee et Poelee de Spaetzle, Sauce Poivrade aux Airelles"” and "Pigeonneau de Champagne Desosse au Foie Gras et aux Fruffes en Feuillete" were beautiful.

Details
Hostellerie La Briqueterie
Route de Sézanne
51 530 Vinay
T: 03 26 59 99 99
F: 03 26 59 92 10
www.labriqueterie.com

Pol Roger

Being in the middle of the Champagne region, the real wine question in a restaurant is what kind of hard-to-find sparkling to order. On this point, one could argue the selection of the Pol Roger 1996 Reserve Brut at La Briqueterie is a bit pedestrian. But, hey, it is a Pol Roger and, to be quite honest, nobody will ever fault you for having poor taste considering that 1996 is the finest vintage second only after the 1990 vintage from the 90's. So, how does it taste? Pure bliss. It articulates flavors like yeast, acidity, floral, and cream of a noble champagne without hesitation and in contented balance. The structure is clear without being steely. The mousse is abundant and persistent. All in all, it is a flawless execution. Granted, one could argue this blend is a bit on the blah-side given its extraordinary balance seems like the result of a safe yet indecisive assemblage. Heretics! This bottle's effortless modesty is Zen-like and everyone should pray to be so "unlucky" to "only" drink champagne of this saintly inconspicuousness for the rest of the earthly time.

Details
Pol Roger
(Incomplete website as of posting)
www.polroger.co.uk

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Beaugravière, La

2004-12-23T17:12:00.000-08:00

(Winter Vegetables)

On the face of it, La Beaugravière gets two forks out of possible five and has black forks instead of red ones in the Michelin guide. On the other hand, 'tis the black truffle season and, being in the middle of the truffle country, La Beaugraviere specializes in truffle dishes. Besides, it is noted for an excellent wine list and comes highly recommended from prior patrons. All important justifications for driving to a restaurant 45km north of Avignon in a town with nothing to do on a single highway exit that has to be missed a few times before found.

(Foie Gras)

The main focus is truffle: Foie gras with truffle, steak with truffle, and vegetable with truffle. The cooking is homely with familiar ingredients and a few nice surprises. Seared foie gras and truffle shaving are accompanied by mashed parsnip that provides firm but subtle contrast to the richness and aromatics. The steak and truffle course comes with a zucchini custard that provides a nice respite from the rich sauce. Finally, the stewed winter vegetable liberally sparkled with truffle and drizzled with truffle oil was a beautiful combination that showcased the possibilities of truffle. Nov-Feb is black truffle season and this is a delicious homage worth paying. Service is casual and friendly but, with a staff of only two, not prompt. There is a tasting menu and a la cart choices. The wine list does not disappoint covering all the major wine regions of France with, being in the middle of the southern Rhone Valley, an in-depth selection of Rhone wines.

And, keeping in mind the importance of terroir in both truffle and wine, a 1989 Le Vieux Telegraphe is an obvious choices that cannot ruin a good truffle dinner.

(Steak and Zucchini custard)

The 1989 vintage, along with the 1990 vintage, is considered the best vintages since 1978 for Chateauneuf du Pape. Domaine du Vieux-Telegraphe is commonly considered to be amongst the best winemakers in the region. This bottle shows the characteristic flavors of spicy, sweet, jammy, tobacco, cherry with a velvety in texture while retaining its soulful exuberance. A beautiful accompaniment to the truffle feast and a wine to drink solo.

(1989 Domaine du Vieux-Telegraphe)

Details
Hotel Restaurant La Beaugravière
Route Nationale 7
84430 Mondragon
T: 04 90 40 82 54
F: 04 90 40 91 01
www.beaugraviere.com

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Fourchette, La

2004-12-23T17:10:00.000-08:00

Avignon offers a wide selection of highly ranked gastronomic possibilities according to the good folk of Michelin guide. So, wanting to try a decent restaurant that serves cuisine provençale, nothing beats the helpful young man at the tourism who kindly suggests several options within a five block radius. Of course, being tired and hungry does not mean that any food, however kindly suggested, will do and the tried and true trick of inspecting the menus and seeing what the staff eat in preparation for the dinner comes handy. With the, presumed, head chef of La Fourchette, a Michelin two black forks establishment, attacking a large plat of pilaf, a generous bowl of lush green salad, and a beautifully steamed whole fish with gusto right next to the entrance, a more effective advertisement has not been devised.

The setting and décor is cozy with a grasshopper/cicada motif. There seems to be a good mix of locals and tourists with the locals greeting each other and visitors enthusing over the day's adventure. The service is pleasant and one senses earnestness and ambition for higher recognition of the Michelin variety. Food presentation is good and all the savory dishes are well executed. The fish dish, simply roasted on a bed of salt, is particularly impressive. Beyond the goodness of fresh fish, the table side service also dug up the fish cheek as part of the offering. Salt and nutmeg grinders are offered for additional personalized seasoning - delectable.

Sadly, the deserts are merely serviceable when compared with the multi-sense feast of the savory offerings. This case of the wanting desert offerings seems pandemic with a good number of French establishments during this tour. It makes you wonder if the patrons would be better served if these restaurants just get their sweets from the neighborhood patisseries.

Details
La Fourchette
7, rue Racine
84000 Avignon
T: 04-90-85-20-93

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Central, Le

2004-12-23T17:08:00.000-08:00

(Frog legs)

Le Central, an auxiliary of the Troisgros empire, is a casual dining room with a gregarious décor, a busy lunch crowd, and a lot of merchandise on display. Prompt service and excellent execution of simple food makes the best example of the single black fork rating granted by Michelin. But, Michelin edicts notwithstanding, three words make going to Le Central a no brainer - Charollais steak tartare. Steak tartare, made with chopped raw beef, is a casual fare found only in bistros. However, like good sushi, it can be a religious experience if done properly and well. Also like sushi, beef is the key determinant of a good steak tartare and charollais is a regional specialty heirloom white cow prized for its lean but tender meat. And, like most regional specialties, charollais steak tartare is best enjoyed without the toil of long distance transportation and over-handling.

(Charollais steak tartare)

The tartare is composed of minced Charollais beef, green herbs, diced pre-soaked onion, and diced cornichon. The dish is accompanied by fried potato puffs and mustard and ketchup as condiments. Think of it as a gourmet burger with fries save the bun and searing. As a dish whose raison d'etre is to showcase the beef, it does not disappoint. Charollais has a most pleasant beefy flavor without the greasy undertone typical of corn-fed beef and, despite the leanness, it is surprisingly tender and melts in your month. This may not be the right meat for cooking given how lean it is; for steak tartare, it is a first rate choice. Le Central also serves frog legs by weight. Cooked in a cast iron pan with liberal helpings of finely chopped garlic and herbs and drenched in olive oil, you transfer the legs onto a plate and drizzle it with lemon juice before digging in. Good stuff. And, no, it does not taste like chicken.

(Frog legs)

Details
Le Central
Place Jean Troisgros
42300 Roanne
T: 04 77 71 66 97
F: 04 77 70 39 77

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L'Avant Gout

2004-12-23T17:06:00.000-08:00

Unsurprisingly or surprisingly, as the case may be, there is a band of young-turk chefs who have intentionally gotten off the Michelin track despite their prodigy and presumptive contender status because they want to cook as oppose to being a chef in white toque. They have been opening bistros since the early 90's and L'Avant Gout's Christophe Beaufront is one of these young-turks.

(Wild boar trotter stew)

With an international clientele, L'Avant Gout is a boisterous bistro with a welcoming fire engine red décor. Space is tight – you get involuntarily updated on what everyone is up to these days, assuming you understand the languages. And, unless you do not mind being turned away - gently, at 11pm - get a reservation. Oh, for birthdays, the staff will dim the light and bring out a sparkling candle in a torte where the entire dining room joins in the enthusiastic yells of "Bravos!"

It is a bistro.

(Sea bass with porcini)

The food is excellent, the portion is large, and you order from an adoise, a chalkboard where the menu is written. The casual and gregarious atmosphere notwithstanding, the no-nonsense classic haute technique and top grade ingredients belies the chef's Michelin contender status. Of particular note is the Bar (sea bass) on a bed of porcini mushroom drizzled with balsamic vinegar and olive oil where each component contributes to the combination with each mouthful. The wild boar trotter stew is flavorful without being overcooked or fibrous and morsels of trotter tendons has both flavor and texture.

As for desert, pick the cheese plate if you are in the mood. Otherwise, skip it. Save the space for your neighborhood pastry shop.

Details
L'Avant Gout
26, rue Bobillot
75013 Paris
T: 1-53-80-24-00

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L'Ourcine

2004-12-23T17:03:00.000-08:00

(Absinthe service)

Sylvain Danière opened his own bistro, L'Ourcine, in the middle of a dimly-lit street without the Michelin prices. The key benefit of L'Ourcine, amongst others, is that it has not yet hit many people's radar screen so you do not have to be involuntarily updated on what your neighbor patrons are up to in a crowded floor plan like L'Avant Gout. Definitely worth a visit - there are worse risks to take with your own scarce stomach capacity in Paris.

(Calamari)

With a clean and sparsely decorated dining area, it is not overwhelmed with expecting patrons and the staffs are friendly, if a bit unpolished. Absinthe, a drink that was lumped together with opiates, cocaine, and marijuana and banned for its reputed propensity to cause madness and suicide, is available for aperitif. The absinthe service is traditional with a jar of ice water over a cube of sugar resting on a slotted "absinthe spoon" where water is drizzled over the sugar into the glass of absinthe. The sugar takes the bitter edge off absinthe and the drinks turns into a milky greenish-white known as "louche." For the record, absinthe is just a strong herbal liqueur distilled with herbs like wormwood and anise - the madness and suicide are, as the saying goes, grossly exaggerated. It is a fun side show while browsing the adoise for today's menu choices.

(Civet de Biche)

The food is meticulously made without pretension. Spider-crab-in-broth-and-foam and stuffed-calamari as appetizers hit all the right notes without fanfare. The roasted fish is a visual feast where the crust and deglazing worked magic for its texture and flavor combination. Civet de Biche, doe stew, is made with a thoughtful and delicate balance of richness, flavor, and texture. Speaking of Civet de Biche, and if you are a fan of Bambi of the Disney fame or fear the end of world is near please skip the next paragraph completely.

Ready? So, in a moment of only trying to be helpful, the waitress sincerely commented that Civet de Biche is made with "Bambi's mother". So, here you have it, if you ever wanted confirmation on whatever happened to Bambi's mom. As for those of you looking for sign of pending Armageddon, American cultural imperialism has finally penetrated the French fortification - in a well hidden bistro.

Deserts, gianduja chocolate cream and rice pudding are, praises be heard, quite excellent.

(Spider crab broth and foam)

Details
L'Ourcine
92, rue Broca
75013 Paris
T: 01 47 07 13 65

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Bellota and Bellota Unico

2004-12-23T16:41:00.000-08:00

When it comes to rare food items, Galeries Lafayette, the famed Parisian shopping magnet, does not disappoint. Its two story Lafayette Gourmet offers eye-popping selections from gourmet sandwiches to a mobbed stall dedicated to Jamon Iberico. After sipping on cava, Spanish sparkling wine, comes the first dish - slices of Valle de Pedrix and Jabugo. Valle de Pedrix is darker and leaner while Jabugo is more marbled with fat and lighter as a result, both offering clean and well articulated flavor with mouthful texture. Second dish is Jabugo slices on a bed of steaming mashed potato where the heat releases alluring aromatic components to the nostrils. Finally, poached eggs with diced Jamon combine the simplicity of soft-boiled eggs and the intense punch of Jamon into an experience that is at once simple in ingredients yet profound in the tinkles that rush down the spine.

As good as the Jamon de Bellota slices are in Lafayette Gourmet, they ain’t no Jamon de Bellota Unico. For this, you have to go to Da Rosa Epicerie Fine whose owner, Jose Da Rosa, has been a purveyor in the Parisian restaurant scene for years. Several racks of whole legs greet the patrons from the windows and the young man with the carving knife offers slices to chew on while browsing. Wowing at the wondrous sight of hung Jamon de Bellota in the cellar, the army of wine and port standing in attention, and exotic spices flanked by bottles of Himalayan crystal salt, Da Rosa is a candy store for the gourmet inner child in you.

But, the real question is how good is Unico? It melts in your mouth like a well marbled meat, yet it is lean and does not coat your tongue with grease. With brininess of curing salt, sweetness of the meat, nuttiness of acorn playing off each other in infinite combinations, each bite comes with fluttering heart as long forgotten primal desires bubble from the core.

That, for cured meat suckers everywhere, is love.

Details
Lafayette Gourmet
Galeries Lafayette Haussmann
40, boulevard Haussmann
75009 Paris
www2.galerieslafayette.com

Da Rosa Epicerie Fine
62, rue de Seine
75006, Paris
T: 01-40-51-00-09
www.darosa.fr

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Calixte

2004-12-23T16:39:00.000-08:00

Unlike the boisterous Ile de la Cite where the obliging Notre Dame and excited tourists collide, Ile St. Louis is residential and has excellent shops worthy of a gourmand trip.

Calixte is one of those shops and it produces amazing croissants and pains au chocolat. A crust golden in appearance and flaky in texture disguises the moist inside all made with a fine disregard to the modern obsession over fat(butter.) The moist inside and flaky crust in each bite reminds you the simple pleasure of life.

Details
Calixte
64 rue Saint-Louis-en-l’Ile
Paris
T: 01-43-26-42-28
Hours: 9:30am-1:30pm, 4:00pm-7:30pm (6:30pm on Sundays), closed Thursday, August, and holidays

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Boulangerie Eric Kayser

2004-12-23T16:38:00.000-08:00

French and Parisians in particularly are often found carrying and nibbling a stick of baguette on the street. So, the question when you visit Paris is whose baguette to carry in order to show your good taste.

Kayser is the reining king of French bakers whose baguette combines crust, texture, aroma, and flavor into an everyday item not imaginable unless you try it. Try not to nibble on it though; you will be liable to finish the whole stick in less than two blocks and render the Parisian walk a short one.

Details
Boulangerie Eric Kayser
8 rue Monge
Paris
T: 01 44 07 01 42
Hours: 7am – 8:30pm (closed on Tuesdays)
www.maison-kayser.com

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Mariage Feres

2004-12-23T16:30:00.000-08:00

2004 marks the 150 years anniversary of Mariage Freres as a tea merchant. More importantly, it offers a dazzling selection from the green teas of Chinese provinces, blue teas of Taiwan, Darjeeling of Himalaya, to black teas of Australia and Zimbabwe.

The Mariage Feres store has a sprawling tea house on the second floor where you can try everything on the seven page tea menu with items such as TA1109, Brumes d'Himalaya - a second flush tea harvested between May and June with a rating of SFTGFOP-1 (Super Fine Tippy Golden Orange Pekoe and "1" denotes the best of the grade) and TA2212, The Jaune de Cinq Dynasties – a Hunan province specialty from China where tea leaves stand up vertically in the water and import an lingering fragrance with a gentle yet voluptuous mouth-feel.

Mariage Freres is a great place to try different teas, to read about European tea history, and, inevitably, to leave with many cans of teas. Good thing that tea is not heavy.

Details
Mariage Feres
Rive Gauche
13 rue des Grands-Augustins
Paris 6e
T: 01 40 51 82 50
www.mariagefreres.com

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Jean-Paul Hévin

2004-12-22T18:32:00.000-08:00

JP Hevin, along with La Maison du Chocolat of Robert Linxe and Le Roux of Henri Le Roux, occupies the rarified stratus of 5 Tablettes operations according to the Croqueurs. You can triangulate its redoubtable international presence from the Japanese embassy postings warning tourists to look out for petty criminals of Paris on the ground floor and waves of excited Japanese conversations from the second floor Salon de The. Unfortunately, the good folks of Hevin do not admire Japanese service enough to emulate it for the tea service. Frankly the service in the Salon de The is rude.

At least, the ground floor shop is beautifully decorated with an elegant sensibility befitting of its name.

JP Hevin's 5 Tablettes rating for bonbons is well deserved and, at once elegant and mainstream, nobody can snare at you for liking them. Tasting shows that texture gets 4.40, aroma - 4.60, balance - 4.40, intensity - 4.20 with an over rating of 4.20.

Tasting Notes
Praline is beautifully balanced with delicate texture without diminishing the characteristic nuttiness. With an intense bouquet accompanied by a lingering aromatic finish, these are beautiful bonbons.

The ganache has a straight forward intensity and lasting aroma with bitter and tannic undertones. Acidity rounds out the flavor. The clear articulation of the couverture and the just right consistency ganache completes the package.

Details
Jean-Paul Hévin
231, rue Saint-Honoré
75001 Paris
T: 01 55 35 35 96
F: 01 55 35 35 97
www.jphevin.com

Shop Hours
Mon-Sat 10am - 7:30pm, closed Sunday, holidays, week of August 15
Tea Room Hours
Mon-Sat Noon - 7pm, closed: Sunday, holidays, August

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Christian Constant

2004-12-22T18:29:00.000-08:00

With fabled background coming from Le Crillon, a Michelin two-star, Christian Constant is worth a visit. This shop offers a selection of savory items, pastry, and, most importantly, chocolate bonbons. While better known for his chocolate works amongst the cognoscenti, his tenure at Crillon comes in focus when you chomp on an soufflé custard with pear and caramel syrup tart, an amazing combination of texture, flavor, and happiness in each bite.

Christian Constant hides multi-layers of flavors with austere and clearly articulated couverture; unlike the ready-made firework-in-the-mouth mass appeal of JP Hevin, he asks you to engage in knowing and lingering conversations with each bonbon where, like a good wine, the more you savor it, the more secrets it reveals.

Tasting Notes
Tabulation comes with an overall rating of 3.83 with individual dimensions getting texture - 4.00, aroma - 4,00, balance - 4.00, and intensity - 4.00.

Praline has a bold and assertive texture with chunks of evenly crumbled nut and sugar crystals where additional aroma is released with each bite. While the intensity is subdued, lingering aftertaste and a tannic ending make for excellent balance.

Ganache comes with exotic combinations like vanilla flower and ginger and you cannot help but admire the confidence in the thin but clearly articulated couverture. While delicate tannic bitterness and acidity show off the ingredients, aromatic and intensity lacks focus and cause the balance to go a bit out of whack.

Details
Christian Constant
37, rue d’Assas
7500 Paris
T: 01-53-63-15-15
F: 01-53-63-15-16
Hours: Daily 8:30am-9pm
www.christianconstant.com

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Gérard Mulot

2004-12-22T18:26:00.000-08:00

Gerard Mulot is a down-to-earth establishment with mouthwatering selections of pastry, chocolate and a separate counter on the far side of the shop selling breads of all sorts. A popular spot for locals, the place is packed with a line for bread, another line for pastry and chocolate, and a rather long third line to pay. And, if you do not mind the crowd, there is a counter with four seats to enjoy breakfast on premise.

Tasting Notes
At the risk of asking the age old question of the half empty or half full glass, the bonbons are a bit predictable but are competently executed making for easy eating. These bonbons get an overall score of 3.25 with individual dimensions rated as texture - 3.25, aroma - 3.50, balance - 3.50. and intensity - 3.25.

The velvety ganache comes with seductive aroma. Intensity is hit and miss. There is not a clear articulation of couverture and a pronounced tannic and cloying aftertaste knock out the balance.

Details
Gérard Mulot
76, rue de Seine
75006 Paris
T: 01-43-26-85-77
F: 01-40-46-99-34
www.gerard-mulot.com

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Jouvaud

2004-12-22T18:23:00.000-08:00

In a way, it is a shame that Jouvaud does not have a shop in Paris because it means that you have to go to the beautiful town of Carpentras, 40 minutes north of Avignon, to enjoy their work. Technically, there is also a shop in Avignon, but having made that far, you might as well go see the picturesque town and the original store which resembles a benign version of the Handel and Gretel's fantasy house made of chocolate, pastry, and everything nice. Known for candied fruit, the tart with custard comes with generous chunks of dried fruit which adds a new texture, heightens flavor intensity, and balances perfectly with buttery crust and creamy fillings. Hmm...

Speaking of chocolate, Jouvaud makes fun and unpretentious goodies befitting of a fantasy house that makes chocolate, pastry, and everything nice. While the merit of gentleness and innocence in style can be debated, if you need to impress or bribe a kid, you cannot go wrong with Jouvaud.

Tasting Notes
The overall score is 3.13 with technical dimensions ranging in texture - 3.25, aroma - 3.38, balance - 3.38, and intensity - 2.88.

The praline has a smooth but articulated texture with aroma and intensity just right to achieve a good balance. It is chocolate eating without expectation or pressure - the best kind.

Ganache is buttery and balanced with texture, aroma, and intensity all taking its place (or taking a back step) to make it well balanced – not made to "wow" you but it lingers for a very sweet memory.

Details
Pâtisserie Jouvaud Confiseries
40, rue de l'Evêché
84200 Carpentras
T: 04 90 63 15 38
F: 04 90 63 21 62

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Pierre Hermé

2004-12-22T18:20:00.000-08:00

Before tasting anything, Pierre Herme is a visual feast; a small rectangular shop with an austere décor lined with cakes, chocolate, and pastries that can be mistaken for sculptures and macarons stare right back at you via magnifying lenses on the glass wall. And what pastry Pierre Herme makes. The biscuit macaron rose shells with rose petal cream, raspberries, and chunks of lychee have amazing flavor combinations and a perfect balance between texture, intensity, and pure indulgence. With pureness of ingredients, superb execution, and sheer creativity, there is no mistaking that you are in the presence of a true master.

(A feast for the eyes)

But macarons are the raison d'etre for visiting Pierre Herme. For starter, they are made in perfectly uniform shape without looking machine-made. When you bite into a Pierre Herme macaron, the texture of crumbly yet chewy shells, the balance of the shells and fillings, and the unmistakable intent of the filling with clearly articulated intense flavors are awe inspiring. The creativity of flavor combination is mind boggling – caramel with fleur de sel, olive oil with vanilla, white truffle with roasted piemont hazelnuts, chocolate and yuzu. As a matter of a fact, the Herme house has transformed products along the fashion haute couture traditions with seasons, themes, and runway shows where the Autumn-Winter 2004/2005 season stirred up a bit of controversy under the title of "Retrospective Perspectives" featuring yuzu, Japanese citron peel. And you thought these treats are just for good for eatin'. The pastry work alone is worth a visit.

Tasting Notes
To be unfairly harsh, the same level of creativity does not always work for chocolate. The overall score at 3.83 is same as Christian Constant, but the individual dimensions are rated slightly lower at texture - 4.00, aroma - 3.80, balance - 3.83, and intensity - 3.50.

The texture and aromatic elements of the praline are angular and fun while the couverture asserts its characters with a touch of acidity. However, the intensity is not able to stand up to other components and the bonbon appears a bit out of balance as a result.

The ganache is well balanced between filling and couverture for texture. The combination of aromatic and intensity followed by lingering tannic and acidic notes make for a satisfying work.

Details
Pierre Hermé
72 rue Bonaparte
75006 Paris
T: 01 43 54 47 77
F: 01-43-54-94-90
Open: Tue-Sun 10am - 7pm

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Sève

2004-12-22T18:19:00.000-08:00

In a corner store stuffed with inviting goodies on the outskirt of Lyon, Seve makes the choice bribe for adults. Like GE of yore, Seve brings good bonbons to life. These bonbons are well made and fun to eat - at once sophisticated yet made to be consumed with no intellectualization required. In other words, and we should all be so lucky, you can pop those bonbons all day long and still enjoy the every last piece.

Tasting Notes
Seve’s overall score is 3.63 with individual dimensions as texture - 4.13, aroma - 3.88 balance - 3.75, and intensity - 3.50.

Praline boasts of clearly articulated texture where aroma is emphasized and released with each bite. Sweetness in the couverture is offset by a lingering tannic note with a most enjoyable balance.

Ganache is balanced with clear articulation on all components where texture is clear in couverture and filling, aromatic and intensity work in conjunction to pack a lingering punch, and tannic aftertaste provides a well rounded end. Finally, hints of acidity makes it refreshing instead of being overwhelming.

Details
Sève
62, Avenue Lanessan
69410 Champagne au Mont d'Or
T: 04 78 35 04 21
F: 04 78 66 15 78
www.chocolat-seve.com

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Vincent Dallet and near misses

2004-12-22T18:08:00.000-08:00

Vincent Dallet is one more reason why the Champagne region is not only for wine lovers. A down-to-earth establishment, there is no pretension and it feels like a neighborhood shop that happens to make excellent chocolate. The hearty breakfast service is good for the soul offering pain du chocolate, croissant, brioche, baguette, jam and butter, cocoa, espresso, and a small piece of chocolate with a single order.

Oh, an unrelated note, unless you use it to dunk croissant, it has been a challenge to get a cup of coffee good enough to drink straight in France. Unfortunately, Vincent Dallet is no exception on the coffee front, but given the cornucopias of sweet and buttery breakfast offerings, it is a minor issue.

(Dallet breakfast)

Okay, time to fess up for the bad news; there is no tabulated ratings for their bonbons. They are good and, worse case scenario, you can always enjoy the excellent breakfast.

Details
Vincent Dallet
26, Rue du Général Leclerc
51200 Epernay
T: 03 26 55 31 08
F: 03-26-51-85-83
www.chocolat-vincentdallet.com

Au Parrain Genereux and Terroir

Speaking of fessing up, unsuccessful attempts were made to two other 4 Tablettes shops. Au Parrain Genereux is in the beautiful downtown of Dijon. Terroir is in the middle of a pedestrian walkway flanked by galleries and bookstores in Paris.

Details
Au Parrain Genereux
21, rue du Bourg
21000 Dijon
T: 03 80 30 38 88
F: 03 80 35 58 51
Closed: one week in February, July 26 to August 16
www.chocolat-gillotte.com

Terroir Chocolat of Christian-Emmanuel Grau
21 passage Choiseul
75002 Paris
T: 01 42 96 56 56

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Pralus

2004-12-22T18:05:00.000-08:00

Pralus is an easy 10 minutes stroll to downtown Roanne from the train station or Troisgros. The main shop's modern and welcoming décor encourages casual browsing.

Tasting Notes
It is unfortunate that the bonbons are not interesting with an overall score of 2.50 with technical dimensions rated as texture - 2.00, aroma - 2.50, balance - 2.50, and intensity - 2.50. The texture is a bit rough and lacking both aroma and intensity. It seems like a case of old bonbons where a streamlined inventory process to weed out old bonbons on the shelves would be helpful. Or the maker should take a stance on what the bonbons should taste.

Details
Patisserie Chocolaterie Pralus
8, rue Charles de Gaulle
42300 Roanne
T: 04 77 71 24 10
F: 04 77 71 52 07
www.chocolats-pralus.com

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Joel Durand

2004-12-22T18:02:00.000-08:00

Strictly speaking, with no attempt to visit the shop at Saint Rémy de Provence nor a taste of his bonbons, there is not a lot of say about this chocolate shop. On the other hand, bottles of Joel Durand praline can be had in Paris' Au Bon Marche store. Masterful harmony in sugar crystals and nuts without being greasy, a generous application transforms lowly breakfast toasts into a morning feast.

Details
Joel Durand Chocolatier
3, Boulevard Victor Hugo
13210 Saint Rémy de Provence
T: 04 90 92 38 25
F: 04 32 60 00 68

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Puyricard

2004-12-22T17:55:00.000-08:00

While wandering the back streets of Avignon on a windy night because the dinner appointment would not start for another hour, the Puyricard shop is ivory in color, regal in décor and, most importantly, open. Without even a single tablette rating from the Croqueurs despite mention of its iconic status in southern France, it is a chance to try also-run bonbons. And, lo and behold, with no exception, they compare favorably against other 3 Tablettes and 4 Tablettes outfits. Prejudice against southerners? Misplaced nationalist sentiments against its Belgium origin? Let the conspiracy theories commence.

Tasting Notes
The bonbons are fun to eat with an overall score of 3.40 and texture - 3.33, aroma - 3.67, balance - 3.33, and intensity - 3.50. Ganache is clearly articulated in texture with aroma and intensity playing off each other to achieve a nice balance where tannic bitterness rounds out the flavor. The couverture is a balance of astringency and sweet richness in flavor.

Details
Chocolaterie de Puyricard
33, rue Joseph Vernet
84000 Avignon
T: 04 90 85 96 33
F: 04 90 82 40 32
www.puyricard.fr

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Valrhona

2004-12-22T17:50:00.000-08:00

In a very fundamental way, eating Valrhona is not unlike seeing McDonald's in an unfamiliar land - there is much virtue in being the trusted and reliable type. On the other hand, unlike McDonald's, you should seek and eat Valrhona chocolate with much gusto and frequencies, especially the vintage and single estate kinds.

Valrhona's shop in Tain l'Hermitage sports mountains of bonbons and wall-to-wall assortment of chocolate bars for sampling, a most winning design for this consumer age. While Valrhona bonbons are considered amongst the best of mass produced choices, the real gem are the vintage single estate chocolate bars. A new creation of particular note is the 2004 Criollo dark chocolate from Plantation Palmira of Venezuela - floral, nutty, and a touch of acidity.

If you haven't tried a Valrhona chocolate bar, try it. If you haven't tasted a Valrhona vintage single estate chocolate bar, taste it. If you haven't savored the 2004 Plantation Palmira Fine Criollo chocolate bar, run and get it.

Details
Valrhona
14 avenue du Président Roosevelt
26601 Tain l'Hermitage
T: 04 75 07 90 90
F: 04 75 07 10 49
www.valrhona.com

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About GlobalCorners Gastronomic

2004-12-22T11:22:00.000-08:00

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